Day 2 – Margaret River

Wanting a day for both of us to kick back without driving and get a decent orientation of the area, day two is spent in the good company of Harvest Tours.

We are collected from our chalet by Jamie, co-owner, tour host and son of a local dairy farmer. Knowing that Harvest Tours is family-owned, devoted to personal attention and devoid of big tour company hustle, we’ve booked the wine tour for foodies – encouragingly affordable and great value.

After collecting 2 other couples, we start at Adinfern wine estate, just south of Cowaramup (which oddly is named after a bird, not a cow). Here we are introduced to the craft, passion and challenges of the winemaker before supping the results – with some gentle guidance on the art of wine-tasting sans the snobbery.

Next we head into Cowaramup for delightful delicacies made by the resident Italian chef at Margaret Riviera. Here you can sample home-made pesto, dukkah, flavoured oils and stock up for those evening platters in front of the fire. Directly next door is a gorgeous gift shop and across the road is a bottle store dedicated to the region’s wines.

MR Providore is our next stop. My husband and I have this little joke. I’m irrevocably addicted to little jars – notably those filled with jams, salt rubs, nuts, tappenades, pickles, marinades, sauces … you get the picture. I have a pantry full of the little buggers. If we ever had a famine, we could live for months on them. Well, this is little jar (and big jar) heaven and my poor man has hardly finished groaning before I mentally clear out the first aisle.

My picks – the lemon curd, shiraz sauce, Moroccan couscous and raspberry jus. Don’t worry – you can taste most of them first. His picks – dark chocolate liqueur and macchiato liqueur. Do not miss tasting these – even if you think they will be too sweet. For those as useless at baking as I am, this is a great way to finish a dinner party. I’ve already done it and will be ordering cases of the stuff for Christmas gifts.

Appetites armed, we’re off to Vasse Felix for more wine tasting and lunch. This is the first (and only) Sauvignon Blanc Semillon that I enjoyed. I’m sure there are some exceptional varieties around, but I’m not a Semillon fan and Vasse Felix has got this blend to perfection for my palate. Probably as much to do with the subtle oaking to add a touch of spice and tannin as a deft hand. The Chardonnay is everything you’d expect from the exceptional care taken to produce a wine with very satisfying texture and depth but remarkable purity. You could stop there and you wouldn’t be disappointed, but don’t miss the chance to taste the Heytesbury Chardonnay, especially if you can get the 2010 vintage. This one snagged 12 gold awards for good reason.

For an everyday ready-to-drink-now red the classic dry is entirely quaffable. For winter perfection and with one of those delicious venison racks I mentioned earlier, try the Shiraz. Very different to a Barossa Shiraz, with more white pepper than black but a gorgeous hit of spice and a hint of jasmine, vanilla and coffee. The Cab Sav is outstanding too, but I must stop or risk sounding like they’re paying me to write this (which they’re not).

Vasse Felix has a warm, inviting cellar door and this theme is carried through to the restaurant. Situated upstairs the view of the luscious grounds and the creek is a perfect backdrop to the stone and wood interior kept toasty with an impressive hearth. The food is hearty too. The lamb shanks are substantial though a little lacklustre, but the pork belly is outstanding.

Nothing better after a little (or big) lunch than a little chocolate. Especially when it’s dark, organic, freshly crushed and tempered from the best cocoa beans in the world. I’ve been to Belgium. I’ve gorged on Belgians chocolate made by boutique chocolatiers in Brugge and Brussels. Until now, I would have bet anything that you’d not find better chocolate in the world. And forgive me, but at the very least I would not have expected to find it in Australia. Aptly named after an angel (and my grandmother), Gabriel chocolate is – pardon the pun – heavenly.

Well fed and bouncing off the walls from our sugar hit, we brave the hammering rain and puddle-hop into Windows Estate. It’s all about subtlety and finesse here. Our tasting comes with perfectly paired local cheeses and a lovely history of the winery. The basket pressed Cab Sav is gorgeously earthy, while the Chardonnay balances fresh citrus notes with a creamy nuttiness to perfection.

Surprisingly, after all this, we have time for a little detour en route to Yahava coffee; and Jamie takes us to an enchanting waterfall off Kevill Road. Worth the few minutes it will take you to get there off the main road.

An idyllic day that you would think could get no better. Until we arrive back at our chalet and glimpse a woman walking by with a roo in tow. Thinking we’ve had too much wine we continue staring until curiosity gets the better of my husband and off he goes for a chat (as he does). Turns out this dear lady is a roo rescuer and has a baby joey slung around her mid in a blanket. The roo following her is one she saved a couple of years ago and has not been able to release back into the wild. The little joey is only 6 weeks old and so needs 24/7 nurturing – for a total of six months. The world needs more people like this. And hats off to Willy Bay for offering their resort as a “soft-release” area for these bouncing beauties.

Day 1 Margaret River

Literally down the road from our resort is the estate that produces one of my favourite summer drops – Fermoy Estate’s Sauvignon Blanc. Their Cab Sav has scored well but it was the Sav Blanc I discovered first so I’m partial. That said, the 2012 lacks a little of the edge of the 2009 vintage, but it still sits close to some of my favourites.

From here it’s a short skip across the road to Evans and Tate. I’ve always enjoyed their everyday range (their classic and Gnangara labels) but was blown away by their Artisan range. Their 2012 Sav Blanc is beautifully balanced with a dash of Semillon and old French oak barrelling gives it the complexity, texture and length that I adore. For now this is only available at the cellar door and online.

Around the corner on Caves Road is Lenton Brae. This is a special smaller family winery and their wines are exceptional. You’ll likely find Jeanette (the winemakers’ mother) at the cellar door and the family dog keen for a scratch out front. A must-try here is the award-winning Wilyabrup Chardonnay & the Cab Sav. Neither of these award-winners are cheap but they are worth every cent and be warned – if you start here you’ll be setting off from a high bar. Thankfully they also offer a delightful, more affordable Brightside Chardonnay – not as complex but just as delicately crafted.

From here it’s off to the Venison farm/shop. Here you can taste (and of course buy) anything from venison chorizo, liverwurst and kransky to full venison racks and steaks. It’s places like this that make me glad I so often go for self-catering. I highly recommend trying the rack (and the chorizo, and the kransky, and … well as much as you have time for). I marinated the rack in a mixture of lemon zest, olive oil and finely chopped rosemary and roasted it for about 25 minutes on 180˚C. I served this with a gorgeous Shiraz sauce (also from the Venison shop). On another night I sliced up some chorizo which I mixed in with tagliatelle and a simple sage butter.

I digress … from the Venison shop we headed to Xanadu for another wine tasting and some lunch. This was undoubtedly my favourite food experience in Margaret River. The restaurant is perfect for a cozy winter lunch. Stone interior, blazing fireplace, timber floors and the food is exquisite.

We shared the oxtail cannelloni as a starter (and immediately regretted not getting one each). All the flavour you’d expect from a properly slow-cooked oxtail but with hardly any residual fat and off the bone in a silky smooth cannelloni tube with mushroom broth and manjimup truffle.

For a main I combined two entrees. Great idea and so glad I didn’t miss either of these masterpieces. Pork three ways – hock terrine, confit belly and smoky rillettes with pickled veg and treacle bread; and the perfection of the scallops with feather-lightness of goats curd delicately encased in a maple pumpkin tube nearly brought me to my knees.
My husband’s beef fillet with mushroom ketchup and potato boulangere was buttery perfection and substantial enough to keep him happy.

We both loved the Chardonnay, the Cab Sav was outstanding and we had a couple of surprises here too. Roger was really taken with the Viognier – unusual for him as he’s not normally partial to too much wood. I wasn’t expecting to find a Graciano, nor such a good one. Not surprising is that Xanadu’s chief winemaker, Glenn Goodall, is up for winemaker of the year.

With tummies well-lined it’s off to Stella Bella in anticipation of their Tempranillo. What a lovely cellar door – and I’m talking as much about the ambience and delightful duo of ladies in attendance. Very knowledgeable, very relaxed and happy for a chat. Just as well too – as they have many wines worth tasting and taking your time over. The Tempranillo was honest, but I especially loved the Chardonnay and their Sangiovese Cab deserves a nod too.

Coffee time. By now a bit like closing the stable door after the horse has bolted, but worth it regardless. Look no further than Yahava coffee works. All organic, freshly ground and the first coffee I’ve tasted that stands up to Brunetti’s in Melbourne. They do coffee tastings too. I strongly suggest trying their iced coffee. First sniff is syrupy sweet and close to off-putting, but do try it with a little milk. We tried this on our tour the following day (coming next) – nearly all of us had the same initial reaction – and nearly all of us bought a bottle to take home.

Margaret River

Someone once told me that heaven will be the best of your personal ideals and favourite places. Well then, if I’m good enough Margaret River is where I expect to spend at least some of my celestial retirement.

I haven’t seen grass this green since Scotland. The fields are groaning with cattle, sheep, calves and lambs. There are wild roos and every so often you’ll catch the receding pom-pom of a rabbit’s tail.

Knowing it would be cold and wet in August and wanting something with a well-equipped kitchen to make use of all the amazing produce I’d heard about, I spent hours searching for the perfect place. Willy Bay Resort on Metricup Road was just that. Surrounded by forest with two dams on the property and adjacent to a vineyard, our chalet had a gourmet (Miele) kitchen, gas fireplace, spa … and a manager with an Irish accent.

The weather was just what we expected … and just what we wanted. Living in Brisbane has its perks, but every now and then it’s nice to have a little season – and wine country in winter is idyllic.

Margaret River is best known for it Semillon Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon. Armed with suggestions from friends and some good direction from my wine guru (Andrew McAllister of Langton’s), we happily worked our way through some of the best wineries in Australia over 6 days. Margaret River produces only about 4 % of Australia’s wine yield, but accounts for up to 25 % of the country’s premium wines.

Of course we couldn’t spend all day every day wine tasting (really, I hear you ask?). Luckily the area has an abundance of galleries, artisan producers (venison, chocolate, coffee, cheese, silk, etc.) and some of the most beautiful beaches in Australia. Enchanting caves abound and the forests are magnificent. You can go on wine trails for foodies, sit back in the saddle for a bush trail or have a massage in the comfort of your own accommodation.

I hope you enjoy reading about this magnificent region as much as we enjoyed visiting it. If you are planning a trip and want to know more about anything I’ve mentioned please feel free to send me a question through the “comment” option on this blog.

In the meantime, stay “tuned” – more to come….

The Greenhouse – Perth

This is the most inspired dining experience I think I’ve ever had. From the quirky exterior to the retro and of course almost entirely recyclable interior – these guys are pioneering a very funky dining trend. And I’m not just talking about sprigs and sprouts. I would apologise for using the overused food-show ideal “respect for produce” but in this case it’s definitive.

From Ox-heart sliders to crispy barra wings, creativity fuses with technique and balance for pragmatic perfection.

The rustic house-made bread and butter and the cured pork loin with fermented pears plays very nicely with the Bella Chenin Blanc, as does the barramundi with crispy salt-and-pepper wings and brandade.

The dish not to miss though is the wood-roasted heirloom carrots with wheat, fennel seeds and labne. I would give bags of gold for a notion of the spices in this. Genius – and worth every minute of the six hours I had to fly over Australia to get it.

4Fourteen – Surry Hills, Sydney

I adore Surry Hills. It’s that little part of Sydney that reminds me of the best parts of Europe (and Melbourne) that have you strolling down paths of history rather than streets. No matter what pops up here … the latest bistro, bar, boutique or organic market store … it beats with that truly eccentric pulse that only few places inherently lay claim to and many others spend copious amounts of money trying to recreate.

As much at home and with deserved conceit is 4Fourteen. For those who watched the last series of My Kitchen Rules and developed the same grudging admiration for Colin Fassnidge as I did, one bite of his ham hock croquette would qualify your belief and the contestants’ worst fear – he knows what he’s talking about. Add a dollop of mustard creme fraiche and he becomes as lovely as his Irish lilt.

This is a sharing restaurant and I highly recommend going with a friend. The entrees are singularly offered to encourage a smorgasbord of personally selected delights. If you make it to the mains, they are generous.

We tried the mirror dory and leather jacket with citrus fennel stew. Restaurant quality with home-cooked goodness. Think melt-in-your-mouth poached dory, textured and almost wildly Spanish-flavoured leather jacket, silky pearl couscous, just crunchy broccolini and the most perfectly sublime broth – with a couple of heavenly clams for decadence.

Then there’s dessert. Which I don’t normally eat. But I was intrigued by “The Bounty”. This is not a ship … but it could sink one. Or inspire Captains and Pirates to fight to the death for the joy of eating one. Think bounty bar – whipped into the puffed perfection of a chocolate mousse, little dollops of coconut ice-cream dusted with cocoa, slivers of toasted coconut and crisp almost-salty tuiles.

This is one of the few restaurants that I will without doubt go back to again and again. Even if I have to go it alone. Against my own advice. Eat it all myself. And work my way through the entire menu. Every season.

Motion Bar and Grill – Brisbane City

Brisbane has been unseasonably wet this winter and faced with another grey day and a cabin-fevered husband, last Sunday I did what any good wife would do. I scrolled through my “restaurant bucket list” and off we went to Motion Bar & Grill at the Marriott in the city. Perfect.

Valet parking (free) and a charmingly assisted elevator trip up to the restaurant – a great start.

Marble flooring, grand colonial windows, linen napkins and proper wine glasses. Even better.

Sunday lunch specials (3 courses for under $35) and you’re inclined to do what we did – kick back, order a bottle of wine and while away the afternoon with good food and company.

Beautiful spiced tomato and garlic aioli with green-lipped mussels (although I usually prefer them a little smaller).

Love the punchy little apple remoulade with the crispy whiting and the truffle mash with the bratwurst is silky subtle perfection.

The real winners here though are the desserts. I adore panna cotta and Motion’s black sour cherry version is sublime. I am not a fan of frangipane, but my husband ordered the warm-baked blueberry tart and I would actually go back for it.

Lemongrass – Carlton, Melbourne

For the past 3 years I have traveled to Melbourne every second to third week. Sometimes I feel like exploring and trying something new and sometimes (especially in winter) I feel like going somewhere warm, welcoming and consistently outstanding. Lemongrass is that place for me.

No surprises they have won so many awards for so many years. This is Royal Thai cuisine that pays true homage to its origin. Their chilli pastes and sauces are hand crafted with the instinct that can only be attributed to decades of handed-down experience. The decor is as delicately finessed as the food, the service as subtle as the klong thaps (steel drums) and pong langs (xylophones) playing in the background; and the prices as well balanced as the whole experience. Surprising is the respectful nod to Australian and some very fine French wines.

I highly recommend – well everything really – as I’ve pretty much worked my way through much of the menu over the past few years. But if I had to choose and you had only one opportunity to eat here – I’d say don’t miss the Prawn herbed salad, red duck curry or the green prawn curry (pictured). If you’re on a budget or in a hurry, their daily street food menu is great value, swiftly presented and perfect for a quiet night in with a glass of red and your laptop.

You’ll find Lemongrass on the eastern end of Lygon Street (174 Lygon Street, Carlton for you SatNavvers). If you’re walking (as I do) but you’re new to Melbourne, brace yourself for the onslaught of Italian Maitre D’s – who will invariably and animatedly promise you everything but Nonna to dine with them.

Keep walking though. You won’t be sorry.

Frosted Bliss

I love Melbourne in winter. Even if my bones get chilled to the marrow, my nose frosts pink and my toes cramp with the cold. It reminds me of Europe. But it has more soul.

It’s all about the contrast. Luminescent green grass, sky so grey it’s almost colourless, burnt orange leaves.

Silver city skyscrapers blanketed in fog, golden domes, ancient spires, vibrant laneways, jagged power lines, yellow trams. Urban parks, brave souls fighting city traffic (and chilblains) on bicycles.

Curries, dumplings, chillies, pastas, cappuccinos, chai teas, cocktails and wine bars. This city is the best of all the places I’ve been to in the world, in one place. Even in winter.

Mushroom Risotto

130609 Risotto

This is my favourite risotto. I’ve made it a thousand times and every now and again I’ll add something a little different. Last night I added some Seven Hills goat chorizo (produce awards 2012 medallist) and mushrooms.

The greatest tip I can give you is DO NOT LEAVE YOUR RISOTTO. Pour yourself a glass of wine, put on some music and be prepared to spend 15 minutes nursing – think of it as massaging – your rice. Honestly, the more love you give it the better.

This recipe serves 2.

BASIC RISOTTO
500 ml chicken stock
1/2 tablespoon olive oil
2 finely chopped shallots
3 sticks celery, finely chopped sea salt
black pepper
1 clove garli,c finely choppped
120 g arborio rice
50 ml dry vermouth (martini) or dry white wine
35 g butter
40 g Parmesan cheese, finely grated

MUSHROOMS
200 g swiss brown mushrooms
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 handful thyme leaves
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
salt & cracked black pepper
1 handful italian parsley leaves, roughly chopped
1 pinch chilli powder
squeeze lemon juice

Put the stock into a saucepan, bring to the boil and reduce the heat to a very gentle simmer.

Chop 1 clove garlic. Slice mushrooms and fry 2 minutes on high heat with thyme. Add garlic and fry another minute. Add a pinch of salt, the parsley, a small pinch of chilli powder and a squeeze of lemon juice.

Chop celery, shallots and garlic. Heat oil in a pan and add celery and shallots. Sweat them for a few minutes. Add garlic and after another 2 minutes add the rice. Turn up the heat and keep stirring the rice until it becomes translucent (about another 4 minutes). Reduce the heat if necessary to avoid browning the rice. Add the vermouth (or wine) and keep stirring. Once the vermouth has cooked into the rice, turn the heat down to a good simmer and add a ladle of the stock and half the mushrooms and keep stirring. When the stock has absorbed add another ladle of stock. Keep stirring and adding stock until the rice is el dente (this should take about 15 minutes). Add the butter, the remaining mushrooms, a handful of parmesan (and sliced, cooked chorizo if using). Spoon into bowls and top with remaining parmesan and parsley.

P.S. If anyone knows the secret to protecting their Parsley from our beloved possums, I’d love you to share it 🙂 I woke up yesterday morning, threw open the curtains and saw this. Cost me $2.40 to buy my parsley for this risotto. Expensive little buggers.
130609 Parsley

Bucci – Fortitude Valley, Brisbane

What a delightful little big restaurant this is. Not having booked and not realising there was a huge restaurant next door, we dined al fresco on the street in front of the bar area. Nice and intimate and if you’re a devoted life observer this is the spot. The service is prompt and the menu expansive – with a commensurate (though a little expensive) wine list.

I adore arancini and Bucci’s caramelised cauliflower and gorgonzola arancini is the best I’ve had. Perfectly cooked al dente risotto, a perfect balance of cauliflower and cheese and a punchy little pesto on the side.

I loved the presentation of the crispy-skin quail – mostly deboned making it nice and easy to tuck into – served with pear vin cotto and a pancetta pistachio crumble.

Their spaghetti and meatballs had a great rustic tomato base and the pasta was perfect, though the meatballs might have been a little less dry. Perhaps that’s the Iti way?

Overall great value and fantastic food. I reckon a rainy Sunday afternoon with a bottle of Pinot Grigio, a platter of salumi, more arancini (drool) and Bombolini (dark-chocolate coated donuts with boozy black cherries) could be just the thing.

Bucci is in James Street, Fortitude Valley. We arrived early so got a table, but it fills up quick so book if you can.

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