This is the most inspired dining experience I think I’ve ever had. From the quirky exterior to the retro and of course almost entirely recyclable interior – these guys are pioneering a very funky dining trend. And I’m not just talking about sprigs and sprouts. I would apologise for using the overused food-show ideal “respect for produce” but in this case it’s definitive.

From Ox-heart sliders to crispy barra wings, creativity fuses with technique and balance for pragmatic perfection.

The rustic house-made bread and butter and the cured pork loin with fermented pears plays very nicely with the Bella Chenin Blanc, as does the barramundi with crispy salt-and-pepper wings and brandade.

The dish not to miss though is the wood-roasted heirloom carrots with wheat, fennel seeds and labne. I would give bags of gold for a notion of the spices in this. Genius – and worth every minute of the six hours I had to fly over Australia to get it.