Category Archives: Great Grub

The Greenhouse – Perth

The GreenhouseThis is the most inspired dining experience I think I’ve ever had. From the quirky exterior to the retro and of course almost entirely recyclable interior – these guys are pioneering a very funky dining trend. And I’m not just talking about sprigs and sprouts. I would apologise for using the overused food-show ideal “respect for produce” but in this case it’s definitive.

Greenhouse Cured Pork

From Ox-heart sliders to crispy barra wings, creativity fuses with technique and balance for pragmatic perfection.

The rustic house-made bread and butter and the cured pork Greenhouse Barraloin with fermented pears plays very nicely with the Bella Chenin Blanc, as does the barramundi with crispy salt-and-pepper wings and brandade.

The dish not to miss though is the wood-roasted heirloom carrots with wheat, fennel seeds and labne. I would give bags of gold for a notion of the spices in this. Genius – and worth every minute of the six hours I had to fly over Australia to get it.
Greenhouse Carrots

4Fourteen – Surry Hills, Sydney

130722 4FourteenI adore Surry Hills. It’s that little part of Sydney that reminds me of the best parts of Europe (and Melbourne) that have you strolling down paths of history rather than streets. No matter what pops up here … the latest bistro, bar, boutique or organic market store … it beats with that truly eccentric pulse that only few places inherently lay claim to and many others spend copious amounts of money trying to recreate.

130722 4Fourteen Bar

As much at home and with deserved conceit is 4Fourteen. For those who watched the last series of My Kitchen Rules and developed the same grudging admiration for Colin Fassnidge as I did, one bite of his ham hock croquette would qualify your belief and the contestants’ worst fear – he knows what he’s talking about. Add a dollop of mustard creme fraiche and he becomes as lovely as his Irish lilt.

130722 Dory

This is a sharing restaurant and I highly recommend going with a friend. The entrees are singularly offered to encourage a smorgasbord of personally selected delights. If you make it to the mains, they are generous.

We tried the mirror dory and leather jacket with citrus fennel stew.  Restaurant quality with home-cooked goodness. Think melt-in-your-mouth poached dory, textured and almost wildly Spanish-flavoured leather jacket, silky pearl couscous, just crunchy broccolini and the most perfectly sublime broth  – with a couple of heavenly clams for decadence.

Then there’s dessert. Which I don’t normally eat. But I was intrigued by “The Bounty”. This is not a ship … but it could sink one. Or inspire Captains and Pirates to fight to the death for the joy of eating one. Think bounty bar – whipped into the puffed perfection of a chocolate mousse, little dollops of coconut ice-cream dusted with cocoa, slivers of toasted coconut and crisp almost-salty tuiles.130722 Bounty

This is one of the few restaurants that I will without doubt go back to again and again. Even if I have to go it alone. Against my own advice.  Eat it all myself. And work my way through the entire menu. Every season.

Motion Bar and Grill – Brisbane City

Brisbane has been unseasonably wet this winter and faced with another grey day and a cabin-fevered husband, last Sunday I did what any good wife would do. I scrolled through my “restaurant bucket list” and off we went to Motion Bar & Grill at the Marriott in the city. Perfect.

Valet parking (free) and a charmingly assisted elevator trip up to the restaurant – a great start.

Marble flooring, grand colonial windows, linen napkins and proper wine glasses. Even better.

Sunday lunch specials (3 courses for under $35) and you’re inclined to do what we did – kick back, order a bottle of wine and while away the afternoon with good food and company.

130630 Motion Mussels

Beautiful spiced tomato and garlic aioli with green-lipped mussels (although I usually prefer them a little smaller).

Love the punchy little apple remoulade with the crispy whiting and the truffle mash with the bratwurst is silky subtle perfection. 130630 Motion Whiting Apple & Celery Remoulad

The real winners here though are the desserts. I adore panna cotta and Motion’s black sour cherry version is sublime. I am not a fan of frangipane, but my husband ordered the warm-baked blueberry tart and I would actually go back for it.130630 Motion Blueberry Frangipani Tart with Anglaise

Lemongrass – Carlton, Melbourne

For the past 3  years I have traveled to Melbourne every second to third week. Sometimes I feel like exploring and trying something new and sometimes (especially in winter) I feel like going somewhere warm, welcoming and consistently outstanding. Lemongrass is that place for me.130612 Lemongrass Facade

No surprises they have won so many awards for so many years. This is Royal Thai cuisine that pays true homage to its origin. Their chilli pastes and sauces are hand crafted with the instinct that can only be attributed to decades of handed-down experience. The decor is as delicately finessed as the food, the service as subtle as the klong thaps (steel drums) and pong langs (xylophones) playing in the background; and the prices as well balanced as the whole experience. Surprising is the respectful nod to Australian and some very fine French wines.

130612 Lemongrass Green CurryI highly recommend – well everything really – as I’ve pretty much worked my way through much of the menu over the past few years. But if I had to choose and you had only one opportunity to eat here – I’d say don’t miss the Prawn herbed salad, red duck curry or the green prawn curry (pictured). If you’re on a budget or in a hurry, their daily street food menu is great value, swiftly presented and  perfect for a quiet night in with a glass of red and your laptop.

You’ll find Lemongrass on the eastern end of Lygon Street (174 Lygon Street, Carlton for you SatNavvers). If you’re walking (as I do) but you’re new to Melbourne, brace yourself for the onslaught of Italian Maitre D’s – who will invariably and animatedly promise you everything but Nonna to dine with them.

Keep walking though. You won’t be sorry.

Bucci – Fortitude Valley, Brisbane

Bucci QuailWhat a delightful little big restaurant this is. Not having booked and not realising there was a huge restaurant next door, we dined al fresco on the street in front of the bar area. Nice and intimate and if you’re a devoted life observer this is the spot. The service is prompt and the menu expansive – with a commensurate (though a little expensive) wine list.

I adore arancini and Bucci’s caramelised cauliflower and gorgonzola arancini is the best I’ve had. Perfectly cooked al dente risotto, a perfect balance of cauliflower and cheese and a punchy little pesto on the side.

I loved the presentation of the crispy-skin quail – mostly deboned making it nice and easy to tuck into – served with pear vin cotto and a pancetta pistachio crumble.

Their spaghetti and meatballs had a great rustic tomato base and the pasta was perfect, though the meatballs might have been a little less dry. Perhaps that’s the Iti way?

Overall great value and fantastic food. I reckon a rainy Sunday afternoon with a bottle of Pinot Grigio, a platter of salumi, more arancini (drool) and Bombolini (dark-chocolate coated donuts with boozy black cherries) could be just the thing.

Bucci is in James Street, Fortitude Valley. We arrived early so got a table, but it fills up quick so book if you can.