A citron is an Asian tree bearing large fruits similar to lemons, but with a sweeter flesh and fragrant peel. The namesake is the perfect indicator of the type of food you will find at this modern Asian restaurant.  It’s been around for 10 years and two courses in I cannot believe that I haven’t been here before.

A read of the menu is enough to have you salivating and more than ready to eat, but we order some canapes anyway. The sweet sandcrab, moist with a drizzle of chilli lime and crunchy with coconut shards finishes perfectly on a peppery betel leaf.

Buttery shavings of rare grilled beef pops with pickled daikon and sizzles with a papaya chilli jam. A classic combination of caramelised scallops, salted and slow-cooked pork belly welcomes the umami of oyster mushrooms and a slightly sweet sesame-soy glaze.

Staying with umami, the roasted miso kingfish is all about subtle balance with the crunch of beans and punch of pickled ginger.

All dishes worth crossing town from the Eastern suburbs for at least once. The one that will have us do it again though is the sweet chargrilled pork belly with crispy lotus root and zesty chilli lime sauce.